Landscape Maintenance Guidelines

The following information is a general guideline to help you properly maintain and manage your landscape and garden areas. To assist you with your landscaping care, we recommend that you purchase a recent issue of Sunset's, "Western Garden Book". This popular gardener's bible is a comprehensive encyclopedia of plants which are suitable for use in the 24 climate zones of the western regions of the United States. The book provides an alphabetical list of thousands of plant species and varieties. A brief synopsis of each plant species discusses its growth characteristics, optimum climate zone, plant origin, and care. Also included are: planting ideas, a plant selection guide in full color, and instructions detailing proper care and maintenance of plants and lawns. This book is a valuable reference guide for all gardeners, especially beginners, who would like to have a better understanding of the care required to maintain and enhance their garden.

I. ABOUT YOUR NEW LANDSCAPE

Your newly installed landscape will require intensive maintenance for several months to help it become established and look healthy. Controlling weeds, pests and disease along with properly watering and fertilizing your plants, is essential to the successful establishment of your landscape. Areas of your property that were once bare harbor dormant weed seeds and pests. Weeds will sprout quickly when water is applied and this vegetation will promote insect infestation. Weekly weed control is necessary for up to one year so that plants can grow easily without competition from fast growing weeds. Slopes are difficult to maintain, but it is important to keep them free of weeds. Controlling weeds and pests is much easier on a regularly scheduled basis rather than waiting until the garden becomes overtaken by weeds or pests. If you do not have the time to spend on maintenance chores, find a gardening service that will weed, cultivate planter beds, and control pests as part of their service. Periodically check newly installed lawns and plants to ensure that enough water is being applied, and to be sure you do not water too much. This is a very important task to perform especially for sod lawns and plants installed during hot summer months. Recently installed sod lawns should look green through and through and show signs of vigorous growth after three days. Walking on a newly planted sod lawn must be avoided. Immediate use of the lawn will cause depressions and soil compaction problems in the future. Wait at least ten days to two weeks before walking on the lawn. Before using the lawn, the sprinkler settings for all lawn areas must be reset to water only one time a day on your sprinkler control timer. It should also be programmed to be off the day you plan to mow your lawn. If it is absolutely necessary to walk on your newly planted sod lawn, walk lightly along the edges and in planter beds when possible.
Most trees, shrubs, perennial flowers, and ground covers establish roots into the native soil within a period of weeks or months. Some plants may show no sign of new growth for up to a year. The rate of growth of a newly planted tree or shrub depends on many factors, but primarily it will involve the type of soil, the type of plant and its exposure, the amount of water to be applied, and maintenance needs. We strongly encourage implementing a routine maintenance schedule. Weekly mowing, trimming, fertilizing, and proper watering are essential to the success of your garden. 

KEEP THESE POINTS IN MIND REGARDING PLANTS AND PLANT GROWTH.

• Do not be more concerned with the rate of plant growth than its overall appearance.

• Some plants need more time than others to establish roots and to develop a root system that will support their new growth of leaves and flowers.

• When selecting plants for your garden, remember that some plants will reach two-thirds of their mature size within 5-10 years, so allow for future growth.

• Plants that have similar watering needs and sun requirements should be grouped together in planter areas controlled by the same sprinkler zone.

• Plants and ground covers are fertilized at the time of planting; do not apply additional amounts of fertilize. It will not make the plants grow faster, and can cause burned leaves.

Gardens develop character as they mature, and will gradually require less care if they have been properly maintained. If you cannot find the time for routine maintenance, hire a knowledgeable landscape maintenance contractor to provide complete gardening services including: mowing, weeding, edging, cultivating planter beds, and checking sprinkler operation.

II. INITIAL WATERING PROGRAM AND PLANT REQUIREMENTS:

Your sprinkler control timer is initially set to water your plants and lawn automatically twice a day.
An instruction manual, and a quick reference guide for setting the sprinkler controller can be found on the inside box cover or attached to the control unit. The sprinkler controller is normally installed inside the garage close to a plug outlet, or on an outside wall of your home, also adjacent to a plug outlet. The sprinkler controller program can be reset or adjusted according to season but you should first read the programming section of the operation manual. Initially, the sprinkler controller is set to water each station every day of the week, twice a day, this program schedule is only temporary. This schedule is necessary to ensure that enough water is being applied to prevent newly installed plants from wilting, and to moisten dry underlying soil layers. The temporary sprinkler schedule must be reprogrammed to operate once a day only after it has been in operation for at least ten days during summer, and five days during winter months (from the time of plant or lawn installation). 

The length of time the sprinkler controller operates each zone is based upon the type of soil and drainage characteristics, type of plants, exposure to sun, and time of year. Porous soils, such as sand or decomposed granite, require frequent watering since water travels quickly through these soils. Clay and/or heavy loam soils retain water and tend to drain slowly. Identifying the drainage characteristics of your soil can help you determine proper amount of water to apply to your plants and how often. The maximum amount of water that your soil can absorb under sprinkler irrigation in a particular period of time depends upon the soil type and its drainage qualities. If you were to turn on a sprinkler station manually, you would observe that after a certain period of time the water begins to run off the top of the area being watered. The soil for the moment has become saturated and can no longer absorb more water. Clay, and clay-like soils are first to show signs of saturation; this type of soil must be watered in short intervals allowing the water to penetrate slowly through the soil layers. Loamy soils, such as imported topsoil, usually have good drainage qualities and are more forgiving if over-watered. On the opposite end of the soil spectrum are sandy porous soils; these soils have large particles that help provide excellent drainage, but require frequent and extended watering periods to keep the plants from wilting.

SPRINKLER CONTROL TIMER SETTING GUIDELINE

• The initial program which waters 2-3 times daily was set when sod and plants were installed. This program must be reset, after 10 days to 2 weeks, to a daily/weekly watering cycle using the above values as a guide.

The sprinkler control timer operates the sprinkler zones and the amount of time each zone will run (a sprinkler zone operates a section of sprinkler heads either in a planter bed or lawn area). The automatic timer shuts off when the soil has absorbed the necessary amount of water required to prevent the plant from wilting. Watering more often will not make plants grow faster, and over- watering can be fatal to plants. To avoid over or under watering, you can check soil moisture by probing around lawn and planter beds with a hand shovel, cultivator, or moisture meter. On top, the soil may appear to be dry, however, after scratching the surface the soil is usually moist.

Sod Lawns: Your sod lawn has been installed on a soil bed which has been amended, tilled, leveled, raked clear of debris, and fertilized. Freshly tilled areas (especially sod lawns) are extremely susceptible to damage from foot traffic, pets, or any type of sports activity. You should not walk on sod lawns for at least 3 weeks. Do not use the sod lawn for play activities for at least 6-8 weeks. Using sod lawn areas before they have had a chance to root properly into the soil will cause damage to both lawn and soil and void your warranty. Depending on its appearance and growth rate, mow sod lawns 3 to 4 weeks after installation, and seeded lawns 8-10 weeks after grass blades begin to appear. Sod lawns quickly and easily establish themselves and rarely fail even if given the minimal amount of care. After installation, the sod lawn is watered twice daily. Your sprinkler timer should be set to water the lawn once early in the morning and once in the late afternoon. Watering twice a day keeps the lawn moist and prevents the edges from drying or burning. An adequate supply of water is crucial to the establishment of a new sod lawn. During the first few days after installation of a sod lawn, check for signs of insufficient water. If dry areas appear, check for a clogged or improperly adjusted sprinkler nozzle. This condition causes the lawn blades to wilt or look pale green. In severe cases brown patches over large areas of the lawn will appear. Water dry areas immediately by hand or set the sprinkler clock to manually water that station for an extra 15-20 minutes daily until the area begins to recover. Increase the watering time for that particular station, or add a third watering time for that station on the sprinkler control timer. Avoid watering during the warmest or windiest part of the day. Water applied during these conditions evaporates quickly and is less effective than if you were to water during the calm, cool, hours of the morning, normally between the hours of 5-8 a.m. Excessive watering will usually not harm a lawn, however, over a long period of time it will cause waterlogged soil and lawn diseases. If watering is excessive, reduce the watering times on your sprinkler controller for the particular station. When your lawn is established, you will need to water at least 4 or 5 days a week during the spring and summer months. You may only need to water once or twice a week in the fall and winter months, (refer to, "Maintenance" section for detailed specifications on mowing height for lawns).

Tress, Shrubs, and Ground Covers: Selecting plants for your project is a process that is based on several important criteria: design and space considerations, visual appeal, plant form, and function. Perhaps more importantly is a plant's environmental needs and long term maintenance requirements. These two factors often dictate whether a plant is suitable for the location to be successfully utilized in a landscape design. Plants are installed in related plant groups that are closely matched in their requirements for water, exposure to sun, and ideal soil characteristics. A plant that is in an ideal location will thrive and adapt quickly to its new location. 

Most plants require less water than sod lawns to survive. Some plants need only small amounts of water to thrive and others require constantly moist soil conditions and daily watering. Be aware that certain plants can die in just one day if they are not being properly watered and monitored closely after installation. Newly installed plants and ground covers require soil that is evenly moist through- out the day, until they show signs of vigorous growth. Once established, the root system of a plant will extend in all directions as wide or wider than the plant canopy, but newly installed plants, (especially small ones such as ground covers) have small, delicate roots which make them especially susceptible to wilting. At the time of installation, plants are manually watered to completely saturate the root ball. The following day, the irrigation system takes over the scheduled watering cycles and periods. A plant in need of water (which wilts during the course of the day) will have droopy and discolored leaves. Larger plants, installed from five or fifteen gallon containers, are just as susceptible to wilting, however, they will last for a longer period of time before permanent damage occurs, but will require a longer period of time to recover. During the warm months of the year, stroll your garden during the warm period of the day to check for plants which may be in distress. Thoroughly water any wilting plants by hand, and they will usually recover quickly. Make the proper adjustment to increase the watering time for the area. 

Over-watering is a common mistake among many homeowners who are unfamiliar with the amount of water a plant requires. A common sign of over-watering is yellowing leaves that easily fall off when touched, or soggy soil. Other signs of over-watering include: algae growth in planter beds, puddles in planter beds, soil erosion, or excessive water flow through the drainage pipes that run out to the gutter. In hot summer months, certain plants are more susceptible than others to root rot soil-born diseases. Root rot can cause plant damage or death by blocking a plant's ability to produce food and absorb nutrients. Affected plants and trees suddenly wilt within a couple of days and completely defoliate. Plants that recover from root rot may only send shoots out from the base of the plant, and may take several years to grow to recover. Plants in heavy soil with poor drainage qualities are usually more susceptible to root disease. In severe cases, sudden plant death may occur (especially if roots are inundated by irrigation water for long periods of time, during the hotter periods of the day). If sprinklers are inundating planter beds and tree wells, reduce the amount of time for that particular sprinkler valve or zone. It may also be necessary to periodically adjust the screw, on top of the sprinkler head, clockwise to reduce the amount and force of the water spraying into planter beds and sod lawn areas. 

It is very important to check the condition of the soil moisture before increasing or reducing sprinkler watering times. Check several areas of the garden; those in shade and those exposed to the full sun. Probe the soil with a hand shovel to a depth of 6" inches, checking to see if the soil is moist below (in the plant root zone). The soil moisture should be uniform throughout. During hot weather, the top layer of soil in a planter bed can become dry, forming a hard crust. This may inhibit water penetration, causing plants to wilt. To prevent this, cultivate around the plant and spread a 1 to 1-1/2 inch layer of mulch over the entire planter bed and water sufficiently to thoroughly moisten the mulch and soil below. By keeping the top layer of soil moist, water is allowed to penetrate to the roots below. Properly maintained plants with a strong root system will be able to survive on a minimal amount of water in drought conditions. 

III. INITIAL MAINTENANCE

Maintaining a newly installed landscape requires time, knowledge, and persistence. Weekly maintenance is necessary in order for your plants to thrive, and to ensure that all watering systems are functioning properly. Landscape maintenance should include: weed control, mowing and edging lawn, removing dead flower heads from plants, pruning dead branches and leaves, raking fallen leaves, removal of debris from drainage inlets, pest and disease control, fertilizing, watering, and pruning. Plants develop abundant new growth in the spring and early summer months. During these months, damage from insects or disease is most likely to occur. Carefully check plants for disfigured leaves, stunted growth, or leaves damaged by chewing insects such as grasshoppers. During periods of rapid growth, plants require more nutrients to sustain their development. A noticeable decline in plant vigor during the growing season (spring), is often caused by nutrient-poor soil; this can be corrected with a well-timed application of fertilizer. However, before taking action, check plants carefully for signs of other problems. Solving plant problems can be frustrating because it requires experience and knowledge. Avoid problems by performing routine scheduled maintenance; the key to a long lasting and healthy landscape. 

Mowing sod lawns: Mowing a new sod lawn for the first time should be done at least 2-3 weeks after installation (depending on its growth and progress). Lawns grow faster in warmer months than in cooler months. At the time of the first mowing, the lawn may appear tall and overgrown, but should look vigorous and healthy. Do not allow a new sod lawn to become so long that it folds over on its side. If the lawn is tall, adjust the mower to the highest possible setting and slowly cut the lawn. Gradually lower the lawn mower cutting height after each week. Long, shaggy lawns may take two to three regular scheduled cuttings to reach normal height and appearance. Never cut off more than one-third of your lawn's total height at any one time, and always use a sharp blade. Be careful not to gouge out turf with mower tires when turning around. Bunching type grasses such as Fescue, or Rye, are cut with a rotary blade mower. Bermuda grass must be cut with a front throw reel blade lawn mower. Check the recommended mowing height for your lawn on the chart below. Before mowing, always check for lawn sprinkler heads stuck in the up position; to lower them, tap lightly on the top of the spray nozzle and it will retract back into the sprinkler body. Soil compacting can occur if you mow your lawn when the soil is soggy and wet, (especially if you have clay soil); to avoid this, reduce watering times and turn off the lawn sprinklers a day or two before mowing. Soil compaction inhibits root growth and prevents water from penetrating deep into the soil. Over the long run, soil compaction can eventually reduce the useful life of the lawn and cause bare spots. The best time of day to mow your lawn is late morning or early afternoon (when grass blades are dry). A dry lawn is easier to mow and results in a cleaner cut. After the initial mowing, cut and edge the lawn on a weekly basis, and check sprinkler operation by setting the sprinkler controller to manually water all stations. Observe the sprinkler operation; check for clogged nozzles and make necessary adjustments. After the system has completed its cycle, reset the sprinkler clock to "run" or normal operation.

LAWN MOWING HEIGHTS

Pets can do a considerable amount of damage to a new lawn. Pet urine and dropping will damage or kill grass and cause dead spots. These areas will be permanently damaged even if your lawn is the type that spreads laterally, such as Bermuda. When pet damage occurs, you can improve the appearance of your lawn as follows: mix a pound of lawn seed with two cubic feet of packaged seed cover (seed cover is a finely ground packaged wood by-product which is sold at local nurseries under the brand names of, "Cuver-up," or "Topper").

TO REPAIR PET DAMAGED LAWN AREAS  

You will find this method useful in reducing both damage from pets, and heavy use by children. Remember, it is necessary to periodically check your lawn for signs of damage from insects or disease. These signs may appear as brown patches of dead or dying grass, discoloration, or the presence of insects that chew roots or grass blades. Chances are that you may never have to deal with lawn problems. If you are experiencing a problem with your lawn, check with your local nursery for advice, or consult, "Sunset Western Garden Book." This book will help you identify plant problems and provide possible remedies. 

Shrubs: Shrub care consists of pruning dead stems and leaves, and removing spent flowers to improve the appearance of the plant. Initial pruning should be limited to removing dead or broken stems and branches. Excess leaf litter around shrubs increases as the plant grows larger. Rake up excess leaf litter to reduce the chance of pest infestation and plant diseases. 

When growing a hedge, prune the top and the sides of the plants first to gradually establish the height and width of the hedge. Do not chop individual shrubs into square or round shapes. This practice will reduce the life of the plant. Ornamental pruning should be limited to certain plants and for a specific purpose. To keep plants compact and to control their height, prune those long shoots that grow faster than the rest of the plant on a regular basis. Pruning and shaping plants and trees for ornamental purposes, such as for topiary, is a gradual process that requires experience, and takes place over an extended period of time. If you plan to experiment with ornamental pruning, seek professional advice or purchase a book on the subject. 

f you are going to perform maintenance pruning tasks yourself, buy a good pair pruning shears, and keep them sharpened (a good pair will cost $20.00 to $45.00 at a garden supply store). Always follow proper pruning techniques as described in the Sunset, "Western Garden Book," or log onto the I.S.A. (International Society of Arboriculture) web site and get first-hand information on pruning trees from the experts. It is important to dip your pruning shear blade into a container of rubbing alcohol, (isopropyl alcohol), when pruning from one plant to another. Disinfecting the blades on your pruning tools will help to prevent the spread of disease from one plant to another. Learn to recognize developing flower buds on plants. Untimely, or reckless pruning practices will destroy future flowers and reduce the plant's appeal. As mentioned earlier, cultivate soil in planter beds regularly and carefully around the root zone of plants to prevent topsoil from developing a hard crust.  Cultivation will increase the flow of water, oxygen, and nutrients to the plant's root system. 

Trees: For the first two or three years, pruning should be limited to removing only dead or damaged branches. Do not remove the growth that occurs along the lower trunk portion of the tree for the first two years; this growth helps trees develop trunk girth and strength. As trees mature, they may require corrective pruning to eliminate branching problems, or to reduce their total size. Improper pruning or topping will damage trees. Properly prune your trees when they are young to ensure proper growth. When your trees grow beyond the reach of conventional pruning equipment, hire a certified professional arborist to perform any major pruning tasks. As your trees mature they add value and character to your home. Stakes must be firm in the soil and rubber ties intact and in proper adjustment. Periodically check tree stakes and the rubber straps that secure the tree trunk. Loose straps will allow the tree to constantly sway, inhibiting proper root development, and binding straps will gouge the tree trunk. Readjust the rubber straps as necessary to allow the tree trunk slight movement but firm support. Tree stakes and ties can be removed after trees have added enough girth to their trunk, and are able to support their structure. Exercise care when mowing and weed-whacking around trees to avoid scaring or gouging the base of the trunk. Install plastic tree guards around the base of trees for protection. Trees require minimal amounts of care once they become established. Most initial tree maintenance consists of pruning dead branches, removal of leaf litter, and fertilizing. Certain trees such as: deciduous fruit trees, ornamental cherry and plum, and other deciduous plants that are susceptible to fungal diseases require an application of a fungicide when dormant. Drooping or disfigured leaves, dead leaves, deeply split branches or trunk, sap oozing from the trunk or branches, and chewing damage on leaves are signs of plant health problems. 

Ground Covers: Ground cover plants are usually the smallest plants installed in the landscape. Creeping ground cover varieties require moist soil to spread, and provide rapid soil cover. They require a moderate amount of care, six months to a year after planting, which consists mostly of weed removal and proper watering. In moist soil, especially during spring, weeds grow very quickly; remove them immediately, or they will quickly take over newly planted areas. Prune dead or broken stems on plants to improve their appearance. After three months of growth, you can plant sparse areas with a container of the identical ground cover to fill-in sparse areas. Once ground cover plants have covered an area, they will choke out weeds and dominate the area. Avoid mixing different types of ground covers. After several years, some ground cover plants tend to look overgrown and unattractive; if this occurs, you can cut back or mow down some varieties of ground cover to renew its appearance. Fertilize the area to promote new growth. On slopes, manually remove weeds and out of control growth. In late winter, apply a pre-emergent on slopes to reduce weed growth in spring; this will greatly reduce slope maintenance in the spring and summer months. Consult the Sunset Western Garden Book to learn more about the correct maintenance of your ground cover. 

IV. FERTILIZING YOUR GARDEN PLANTS 

A key factor when fertilizing is coordinating the application with plant needs. Selecting the correct fertilizer for your landscape plants, and properly timing the application are crucial to plant growth. There are many fertilizers available at your local home improvement center, nursery, or seed store. Fertilizers can be general in nature, or designed for a specific group of plants such as; palms, roses, azaleas and camellias, fruit trees, or grass. Be specific when purchasing fertilizer, whenever possible, to obtain the best results. In general, fertilizers contain several elements, but contain the highest quantity of three primary elements: nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, (often referred to as NPK). The label on the product displays the NPK content such as; 21-7-14, or 15-15-15. These numbers vary depending upon the type of fertilizer and its purpose. These numbers and the ingredient label are known as the fertilizer's "analysis", and represents the percentage of NPK per pound that the bag contains. Fertilizers also contain trace elements known as micro-elements. A well-balanced fertilizer must provide a steady amount of nutrients during the plants growing season to sustain growth, and have a healthy appearance. Lawns require a fertilizer high in nitrogen and frequent applications to look its best Nitrogen is the key element in fertilizer which makes your lawn green. Depending upon the season, lawn fertilizers high in nitrogen will produce rapid greening, and are beneficial during the colder months of the year. It is important that fertilizers be applied to lawns and plants when they are approaching their growth periods, and during their peak growth period. Plants grow more rapidly during the spring and summer months, and grow slowly during the cool fall and winter months. Never apply more than the recommended amount of fertilizer to plants or lawns as this can cause permanent damage to plants. After applying fertilizer to your lawn and plants, it is important that you run the sprinkler zone for the area you have fertilized; this helps the fertilizer become soluble and immediately available to the plants. 
Plant growth depends upon several variables: the type of plant, the climate, the location or exposure of the plant, the condition of the garden soil, and maintenance of the plants. Some trees and shrubs grow faster than others during the first year to two years after planting. Often, plants of the same species and variety may not grow at the same rates. The eventual size and growth rate of a plant often depends upon whether the plant was propagated from a seed, or from a cutting taken from a mother plant (a vigorous plant of a particular species used to essentially produce clones with the same favorable characteristics). Fertilizer planting tablets are placed along side the plant during installation. During the first few months after installation, plants are establishing root systems to sustain growth and a steady supply of water. Once established, many trees and shrubs require only a small amount of fertilizer to encourage growth; when new growth appears in the spring, apply fertilizer at the recommended rate. 
Slow-release granular fertilizer is long lasting, efficient, and economical to use. This type of fertilizer slowly releases nutrients into the soil when water is applied. Liquid fertilizers applied in a solution of water, provide quick results when needed, but the effects are short-lived. If applying liquid fertilizer solution through a hose end applicator, do so in the early morning hours when the temperature is cool ,and the air is calm; this will ensure that the maximum amount of solution reaches the plants. If applied during hot or windy conditions, the solution will evaporate quickly and be less effective. Occasional use of liquid fertilizers is beneficial for ground covers, vegetables, and flower beds. Healthy and vigorous plants greatly benefit from a well-timed application of fertilizer. 

Remember, the best time to fertilize is prior to and during periods of vigorous growth, (usually in the late winter to early summer months). Although there are many fertilizers available for lawns, shrubs, trees, and ground covers, always select a high quality brand name fertilizer for each particular purpose. Applying more fertilizer will not change the growth characteristics of a plant, and can hurt the plant's progress or damage it; in this case, more is not better. It is never recommended to fertilize a diseased or stressed plant: this will further harm or even kill the plant.

V. HARDSCAPE CARE

Newly installed masonry, concrete patio floors, planters, and barbecues can take from several days to 6 months to completely cure, or set; during this time, surfaces are susceptible to damage. Avoid placing iron furniture (or patio accessories which may rust) on top of patio floors. Light scratches will not cause permanent damage, but heavy objects pulled across surfaces will gouge and permanently damage new concrete surfaces. Please consult with a professional before attempting to clean a stained hard surface if you are unsure on how to proceed. Permanent damage to surfaces can occur when using cleaning liquids or acids. Be aware that fertilizers and pesticides will permanently stain and etch concrete surfaces; wash these substances off immediately with plenty of water. White vinegar is effective in removing some staining, but has a limited effect upon highly porous surfaces. Use caution when applying and handling acid washes and sealers since they are caustic substances that can cause quick damage to surfaces. Even if all possible precautions are taken, wire mesh or steel reinforcement hair line cracks in concrete are sometimes unavoidable; such is the perplexing nature of concrete. In newly constructed homes, soil which was improperly compacted can cause separations in concrete patios, as well as cracks and slumping in newly installed concrete surfaces. There is no guaranteed method or precaution that can prevent cracking in concrete paving. 
Brick masonry often produces efflorescence (a white powdery substance that leaches to the surface of bricks). These are minerals from the manufacturing process and/or from brick itself; this condition gradually declines and is not permanent. Brick can be cleaned with plain, white vinegar, or can even be acid washed to remove deposits. Often, a brief pass with a stiff wire brush and water will remove dirt and deposits on brick and stone. Sealers should not be used where moisture can get behind or underneath masonry or stone. Trapped moisture below the sealed surface will sometimes ruin the natural appeal of the finished surface. In areas with hard water high in minerals, irrigation water will sometimes produce spotting deposits on sealed surfaces. Protect tile barbecue counters with a cloth cover over the entire surface, when not in use. Use a grout cleaner and sealer to protect tile grout from weather. Consult a professional if you have any questions regarding the cleaning or sealing of hard surfaces including: concrete floors, natural stone, brick masonry, tile fountains, or tiled counter tops.

VI. LOW VOLTAGE LIGHTING SYSTEMS

Low voltage lighting systems are designed to enhance safety, security, and to highlight landscape trees and plants. Properly installed, low voltage lighting systems are efficient and economical to operate compared to standard 110 volt systems. The low voltage lighting system consists of the light fixtures, the transformer and timer clock, and direct burial wire cable. The wire cable is buried in the soil and connects the light fixtures to the low voltage transformer. The transformer is plugged into a 110 volt electrical outlet and powers the lights by sending current through the wire cable. The transformer contains a timer that can be adjusted to suit your needs. When installed, the system is set to operate daily from dusk to midnight. It is necessary to adjust the starting time every season as the days get longer or shorter. If you add lights to your existing system, be certain not to exceed the maximum capacity of your transformer; this can cause damage to the transformer and wire cable as well as reducing the effect of the lights. Low voltage transformers are very reliable, and provide carefree service for many years. Burned out bulbs, severed cable, or weathered connectors are usually the cause of most lighting problems. Purchase replacement bulbs at a professional lighting store, or home improvement center. Always install the same watt and type of lamp originally installed in the fixture. Bulbs are simple to install in most fixtures. Pathway light bulbs are either: two pin halogen bulbs (which are pulled straight out and pushed back into place), or incandescent bulbs (where the bulb must be pushed down and rotated to the left before they pop out). Up lights are either canister type lamps or staked lamps with a bullet shape. The canister fixture has a cylindrical housing made of ABS plastic and contains a sealed beam (often referred to as a Par-36 lamp). The entire canister must be removed from the ground to replace the lamp. The two wire leads on the sealed beam are unscrewed, and the lamp can be removed. Clean the canister and reinstall it into the ground, and don't forget to readjust the lamp angle. Staked up light fixtures use an MR-16 halogen lamp. The bulb is secured by two pins at its base that fit into the fixtures socket. Remove the fixtures housing that incases the lamp, grab the lamp at the edges with your thumb and index finger, and pull it straight up and out; you may need to wiggle the bulb back and forth to pull it out. Replace the lamp with the identical type and wattage. With halogen bulbs, do not handle the new lamp face with your fingers. Grab the lamp at the edges and carefully push it into the socket. Replace the lamp lens and gasket, and secure with the set screw. Each light fixture is connected to an underground main wire cable with grease filled weather proof connectors. Over time, connectors can deteriorate and fail, cutting off current to the light fixture. To trouble shoot this problem, follow the wire from the lamp fixture to the spot where it connects into the main cable in the soil; pull the main cable and connection out of the soil and inspect the splice. If the connector has deteriorated or wires are corroded or have come loose, repair the connection and replace the wire cables in the soil. Make a new splice by cutting the old splice away from the cable, stripping the insulation off the wire cable ends to be connected, and securing them together with a new weather proof wire nut connector.

RECOMMENDED REFERENCES:

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